At 8:30 last Friday night I was yet again in the back of an auto-rickshaw off to the Majestic bus terminal, this time to catch a train to Dindigul for a trek to Kodai. We had sleepers for the journey and so the trip was an easier one than last time. I had a top bunk so I could hang my feet out over the end without blocking the passageway, and actually got some sleep!
Naresh woke us at about 5:30 in the morning as we approached Dindigul and we left and found a nice place for breakfast at the bus station. Great dosas and idlis here. We caught a bus for the 90 minute trip to Palani, and then all piled into a van for the last 7km to the edge of the forest.
We followed a path along the top of a wall for about half an hour, which lulled us into a false sense that the trek might be relatively non-strenuous. The day was warming up but there was plenty of shade and it was quite a pleasant walk. As we got deeper into the trees we started to see the unmistakeable sign of elephants hhaving been in the area recently. Fortunately none of us stepped in it.
Eventually the path ended in a small dam, and we started to follow the stream bed up the hill into the reserve proper. The stream bed was filled with boulders ranging in size from 1m to 5m in diameter, and there was no real path on the sides of the hill so we had to climb over all of them. Very soon it felt more like rock-climbing than hiking, and this continued for the rest of the day.
At about 1pm we broke for lunch in a tiny rocky clearing, and made several trips up to the small running stream to fill vessels and refill our water bottles. Again I was happy to have brought my water filter - the water was flowing out of all but stagnant pools made shallow by the heat and lack of rain.
Lunch was papads and Sambar and it was good alhough it took about an hour and a a half with all the gathering wood, cooking and then cleaning and refilling (yet again) of water bottles. So we set out again and re-acquainted ourselves with boulders and their infinite variety of shapes, sizes, handholds and opportunities to seriously injure you if you don’t pay attention.
We were making for a waterfall at the head of a very long valley, and it soon became clear that we were not going to be able to make it all the way. So when we came to a rocky flat area with two waterholes at about 5pm we decided to camp there for the night. We were also quick to go for a swim - the bouldering had been exhausting and the water was amazingly refreshing.
I managed to gain the klutz of the day award by forgetting to take off my glasses and then doing a bomb and promptly losing them to the bottom of the waterhole. Fortunately it was just over 2m deep and I managed to find them with my feet and get them back. It might have been a rather interesting time trying to climb over boulders while blind!
As the sun went down we made chai on the fire, lay down on the rock and watched the stars. And the forest fires. On the peaks on one side of the valley a forest fire was raging. For some time it seemed to be coming towards us down the hill, and then we lost sight of it behind a ridge, the only clue that it had not died out the orange glow of the smoke silhouetting the trees on the ridge.
Owen, who was watching it with me, said that “We’ll know it is coming towards us if that tree on the ridge catches”. Just as he said it a flame reached out from the smoke and lit it like a torch. Within moments the whole tree was a light and the rest on the ridge followed.
Fortunately the wind turned favourable for us and the fire was contained to the same section of the hill for the rest of the night. So we went back to chatting about politics, as some of the others played Anthakshari, a game where each person must sing a line from a song (normally from a Bollywood movie of course). The next person must then sing a line from a different song that starts with the same word or syllable that the last one ended with. Someday I will try it in english…
Finally we turned in and put out the fire - Owen went for a late night swim to rescue Fiona’s sleeping bag that had rolled down into one of the waterholes. I think she will be paying that one for a while. By that time it was *cold*. I slept reasonably well, despite literally sleepng on sloping rock. I did occaisionally wake to the sound of animals. Some of the others heard many moving around in the night, and swimming in the water, but mostly I heard the sound of bats flying overhead, and the occaisional falling log in the bush.
The next day we got up with the sun and Naresh made a breakfast of smashed rice. We washed and packed and compared notes on the animal noises of the night, and then some of us spent half an hour pumping water into bottles while the others started up towards the waterfall.
Start as you mean to continue is always the idea - and the day started for us with crawling through a tiny gap between two boulders onto a ledge covered in red ants. The rest of the morning was spent, as the day before, clambering over massive volcanic boulders towards the ever elusive waterfall. Towards lunchtime we got to an area with ancient spreading lava flows, complete with rounded fumaroles ready to trap the unwary trekker.
Ash drifted down from the many spot fires still smouldering on the steep walls of the valley, and we frequently came upon trees turned to ash from spot fires that fortunately seemed very localised. Finally we came to a clearing with a sandy floor and some other western trekkers who were having their lunch.
Their local guides were shocked that we had slept near the waterholes - they told us that that area was where all the local wildlife came to drink and was quite dangerous at night. In fact, the Elephant droppings that we hadd seen there were from a herd of 20 that had spent the night before us at the waterholes. The thought of what might have happened if they had come back was a sobering one, and the noises of the night too on quite a different significance. (For the record, the animals of the area include: Elephants, Nilgiri langur, sloth bear, spotted deer, giant squirrel, leopard, Indian bison and a variety of birds, although I can only claim to have seen the birds)
The guides pointed us to the path up the hill for the next part of the trek. This was refreshing in that it was a real path, clear and well trodden, and not involving any boulders. However it was also at times nearly vertically up the 500m wall of the valley. Since we were running behind schedule we needed to get foing as soon as possible, and so we skipped lunch and, again, some of us went to fill water bottles while the others went on up the hill.
Unfortunately we had also skipped dinner the night before (it had got dark and everyone was too tired to cook), so we tired quickly up the hill, and it seemed like we had to take a rest every 10 steps. However the views were spectacular, all the more so as we made our way up the side of the valley. As we rose we again crossed over areas which had been burned out - some of them we still hot from the fires. Across the valley another tree was burning and the smoke twisting into the still air.
We stopped briefly for a rest and some food about 20 minutes from the top of the valley, in a small stone overhang that provided some shade. Here we finished the scroggin I had brought, which made some small dent in our rapidly growing hunger. Finally we headed up the last steep pitch through thick trees to the top of the valley wall, and were greeted with a spectacular view back down the valley to the flood plain below.
Then, finally, the bliss of a downhill pitch. All the pain was forgotten and I almost ran down the hill path. This led past several small farms until I started to hear the sound of folk music from a tinny radio filtering between the trees. I came out past a river where the women ov the village were filling pots with water and doing their washing, and finally caught up with the others in a small clearing.
There was an exhausted discussion going on about what to do next - whether to eat and then catch a jeep back to a road where we could catch a bus, or whether to leave immediately and eat in Kodai Road. fiona and I skipped out and walked up the road towards the main part of the village, and sat in the dust with the kids watching the people get on with their lives.
Finally the decision was made by necessity - it was now too late to do anything but get to Kodai Road as soon as possible, so all 11 of us piled into the back of the only remaining jeep and drove up to the main road. There we were told that, being a Sunday, all the buses would be packed. Just to prove it a bus pulled up that was worse than the Northern line at rush hour.
It was clear that we would not get to Kodai Road like that, so we negotiated with a couple of Jeep drivers and headed off. We had 3 hours to cath the tran and the tandard time from that spot to Kodai Road, 110km away in the valley, was about 3 hours. So we were going to be pushing it.
Unfortunately someone told the drivers we were in a hurry. I was in thhe second jeep, and we only had one close call, overtaking a bus as two trucks came towards us and ducking in just at the last moment. The others later suggested that they had only one incident that was *not* a close call.
Belting through unlit towns with pedestrians everyewhere at 75kmph while blowing your horn to warn peple that you are not going to stop may be commonplace here, but its not much fun when you’re in the front seat and not wearing a seatbelt. If I wasn’t so tired I might have been scared.
As it was we made it to the train station by 7:30, leaving us an hour to have some dinner and calm our shattered nerves. Again, the food was excellent - great dosas and idlis and a truly superb tomato chutney. We all ate at a pace that it frightens me to remember - a long days trekking with only a small breakfast really took its toll.
Then it was off to the train and some well-earned rest. I don’t think anyone had any trouble sleeping on the train that night, and when we arrived at 7am Monday morning it was time for a quick shower and breakfast in the Diamond Cafe before going to work.
Phew. This was a much more tiring trek than the one a couple of weekends ago — but more rewarding too, with spectacular views and challenging terrain, and a great bunch of people who it was a pleasure to meet and spend a weekend with.